In a fall into water, your body pushes water aside. Water moves from under your body as you decelerate. Water provides layers of matress-like support. It cushions a fall from low heights. A soft landing is gone when water cannot move out of your way fast enough. This occurs in a fall from great height.
You can hit the water so hard from a speeding surfboard, that you hurt. Pain and even injury may occur when hydrodynamic resistance momentarily blocks your entry into and through water. The speed you carry from a diving surfboard, will cause you to briefly stop you on the surface. You are moving too fast for water to move out of your way. Water does not move much with impact by speeding, flat objects. Water cannot compress. therefore; your body compresses. The water feels more like the earth with high impact You can reduce resistance by landing in a dive or pin drop fall. This will reduce chances of you skipping on the surface like a flat rock.
After a hard numbing collision with water, your body decelerates by compressing against water before penetrating the surface. The collision possibly wrenched your neck and crunched vertebrate, this will hurt later. Your tissues and organs also took a jolting blow, when the water's surface did not give in. You probably feel a bit dizzy from a numbing blow to your head. As you come to your senses, you yearn and crave air, as your lungs flattened and released the little air they held. Just when things start to calm, there is a roar and a thundering explosion. The wave breaks on you with a brutal and violent force that squeezes your sinuses and eardrums. They feel like they will burst. Water twists and bends your body into unimaginable shapes. You experience the forces of hydrodynamic resistance. Hydrodynamic forces bend and twist your body as you are propelled by water against water moving all directions hurting muscles and smashing tissues. Suddenly you feel weightless as your are sucked upward, and over a large powerful waterfall. You land in turbulent frothing water craving a breath of air. After a long struggle, you find the surface and take a deep breath, You can only take one breath as the next wave is about to break on you. You dive under for another beating. You are fortunate as Mark Foo was not as lucky, his story is next.
The same hydrodynamic forces that worked on your body, causes your surfboard to stop in a nose poke. Hydrodynamic force when applied to the bent nose of a surfboard, can push it backward. This is main discovery of this research project.