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May 16, 2020

     Riding on the crest of a wave, a quintessential surfer glides on water propelled by nature's energy. He smoothly slips into a steep surging swell as it transforms into a cavernous vortex. Effortlessly he turns across its emerald glistening surface. His ride is sea...

February 25, 2020

   In response to many inquiries, Riley Morgan is recovering from  his horrific wipe out in the Volcom Pipe Pro.  He landed on the wave face with such tremendous force, that he compressed  four intervertebral discs which caused slight fractures.  Riley wears a small ba...

February 10, 2020

     Many injuries are not reported in surfing. Serious accidents often go unnoticed and many valiant efforts are never acknowledged.  Often surfers live with their pain without really understanding what caused their injury. 

     Wipe outs can bring...

June 30, 2019

     Most surfboards have flat undersides from nose tip to fin area.  Tail designs vary with flat, Vee or concave shapes.  The forward section of the surfboard under the nose bend, is called the bow in boats.  In boats the bow parts water pushes out of its path.  In su...

June 12, 2019

When you dive into water, it cushions you and absorbs your energy.  Your body pushes water out of your path and energy is transferred to water in the form of waves.  You generate waves, slowing and descending deeper until your energy dissipates.  Descent into liquid is...

June 4, 2019

     The closest a man or woman has gotten to walking on water, is by water skiing barefoot.  The difference between a walker and skier, is speed.   If someone stepped off a speed boat moving very fast, he may manage a couple of steps.  Of course, this would not end we...

May 4, 2019

Mark Twain described a lightning fast surfer:  "at the right moment he would fling his board upon its foamy crest and himself upon the board, and here he would come whizzing by like a bombshell! It did not seem that a lightning express-train could shoot along at a more...

April 5, 2019

      Eddie would go and leads the way to Aloha.  His legacy drove exploration and research in Hawaiian culture, navigation and teachings.

    

     History links our past to the present.  It helps us to recognize events which advanced our lives,...

March 15, 2019

     

     All surfers have fallen hard into water.  When you impact water with speed, your body pauses on the water's surface for a second.  Water resists displacement and will not immediately move out of your way, due to the speed you carry.  Wate...

March 4, 2019

     When a surfboard takes off it moves through three phases.  Initially it pushes water in the displacement phase.  Vessels must push water out of their path to move.  Following the displacement phase it goes into transition.  This is just before taking the drop.  Th...

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