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December 28, 2018

Surfers occasionally add weights to their surfboards for a boost in riding through chop or penetrating strong winds.

Weights give the rider additional momentum.  A weighted board plows through chop more easily.  Weights are helpful and provides thrust needed to move thr...

December 27, 2018

Fluid Dynamics

     All vessels move in water by moving water.  Surfers generate waves while riding waves.  At the start of a ride a surfer generates a forward wave called a bow wave; and an aft wave known as a trailing wake....

December 9, 2018

Terminal Velocity is the maximum velocity of a falling body through a medium.  Years ago, I lost a friend, who fell in a failed helicopter rescue.  I wondered what happened when he hit water at Terminal Velocity.  With ignorance and curiosity, I did some research.  Ini...

December 6, 2018

Australian surf boats are designed to recover out of a dive.  The boats successfully resurface most of the time.  Bow shape and quick weight shift are factors to success.

Surfboards do not recover out of dives.  The videos below may explain why.

...

December 4, 2018

Surfing has evolved with flight.  The playing field has forever changed.  In smaller waves, surfers take to the sky, performing high aerial tricks with successful water landings.  In large waves, the skills required to land high aerials has transferred.  Surfers are su...

December 3, 2018

On the first day of competition, with the surf still rising, professional women competed.  Dangerous sets continued to build bigger and bigger.  The Women did well to survive.

Conditions were very dangerous when men entered the water. Billy Kemper to...

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