So Close and So Painful

July 19, 2017



     Niccolo hangs on for an incredible ride, The wave is extremely round and hollow, with water rapidly streaming up its face. The flow of water is opposite Niccolo's movement. The bend in the bottom of his surfboard, abruptly impacts wave face, and gets caught in the upward water flow.  The sudden deceleration in speed pitches Niccolo.  The board does a shallow pearl without submerging.


     The bend in the nose of a surfboard is called rocker. This bend prevents the tip from submerging, or pearling. The tip does not have to submerge for a board to stop,. Drag is produced under a surfboard, whether it is under water or in the wave's face. Rocker introduces a corner or protrusion called a bow. A flat bow catches water, in a very round wave contour. A surfer cannot remain standing with the sudden change of speed. Moderate rocker with a softer bow shape can cushion impact, allowing the surfer to keep his balance.


     Niccolo never gives up, he tried again and won an award.










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