Surfers occasionally add weights to their surfboards for a boost in riding through chop or penetrating strong winds.
Weights give the rider additional momentum. A weighted board plows through chop more easily. Weights are helpful and provides thrust needed to move through rough water. Although weights help keep the board moving, added weight may actually work against a surfer. In an airborne drop, extra weight increases mass and may cause a harder landing. On a flat underside, high impact with large chop or wave bottom, may abruptly stop the board. A hard landing creates hydrodynamic resistance, water cannot move out of the way fast enough. This can push a flat bottom surfboard back. An accomplished surfer cannot remain standing.
An alternative is to use a different bow shape. A shape which parts water is more efficient in cutting a path. A weighted board butts and bucks swell and chop. A Vee or round bottom can push water aside, out of the rider's way. Combining weight with a round or Vee bow may avoid catapulting and allow entry in strong winds.
Computer technology is used for surfboard design, however; sometimes ancient knowledge is forgotten. Rounded and Vee bows were used to cross oceans centuries ago. Duke used surfboards with rounded and Vee bows.
Ancient knowledge is valuable.