Surfboard Nose Rocker May Inhibit Wave Entry
High nose rocker may inhibit a take off or getting on a wave. Nose rocker creates a bow on the surfboard's underside. The bow is a bottom bend which protrudes into the water, at the start of a ride. The bow pushes water creating a bow wave. Water is moving rapidly up the face of the wave, increasing drag. The result may end with the surfer missing the wave. A more serious consequence, ends with the surfer getting stuck on the lip.
Wind moving up the wave face also slows the board. Additional weight can help penetrate the gusts. The boards slow as the bow pushes water and wind holds the board back.. The swell passes under the board. The rider appears to move backwards, as the wave moves forward under the surfer.
The end result is visible below.
Wilem Banks also gets stuck, his board is pushing against rapidly rising water, while wind accelerates up the face. The two combining forces of resistance holds him back.
The result is similar to the previous wipe out. High wind and high nose rocker can cause horrible wipeouts.
Less rocker combined with a round or Vee bow can help a rider enter the wave on take off. These bottom shapes help push water out of the rider's path. Success is not guaranteed ,as there are numerous other variables to contend with. Wilem Banks is contending with cold water, which is more difficult to penetrate.