The WSL Big Wave Tour Peahi Challenge featured innovative performances. In the final, Ryan Hipwood and Kai Lenny together, took off late under the lip on a giant wave. Take offs under the lip are usually attempted in waves of less magnitude. Both surfers initially free fall; their boards impact the wave's face. The impact generates splash and spray in both rides. Spray flies over Ryan's board. In Kai's ride spray shoots to the side of the board. This difference produces opposite outcomes. The boards land on their bows; the splashes are bow waves. Bow waves are not visible, but; the red arrows indicate the origin of the spray. Ryan is in a more vertical plunge, evident by the angle o
Surfing is a gravity sport similar to skate boarding, skiing and snowboarding. Surfing differs in that the mountain changes and moves. Wave motion adds movement and danger to surfing. A fast moving breaking wave affects a surfer by either giving him a boost or a terrible beating. Ideally a surfer prefers to ride within the breaking wave using gravity to propel him. Kinetic energy is generated by gravity forces on the surfer's weight. Gravity is a surfer’s primary source of energy. Surfers must balance the forces of gravity. For this discussion gravity is simplified, not without recognizing a surfer's dedicated discipline of balancing and controlling gravity forces. The center of grav
Let’s take a plunge down a very steep wave. As you struggle to keep the nose up, you lose control. The surfboard free falls to the bottom of the wave and the nose is buried in the dark depths of the sea. The surfboard stops moving abruptly and you are catapulted, flying through the air weightless. You are hoping the surfboard doesn't hit you as regretful thoughts rush through your head. “I know, I should’ve gone to church. Oh no, I didn’t hug the family.” You impact water with stinging pain. This is accompanied by a jolt to the head that compresses your neck, sending numbness down your spine. The wave breaks on you and tosses you around as your lungs crave oxygen. At last you surfac
WSL Quiksilver Pro France What really happens in a nose poke? A nose poke is a shallow pearl dive. The nose or tip of the surfboard may or may not submerge underwater. The surfboard usually decelerates. At high speed the board can stop abruptly and launch the rider. A surfer can control and ride through a gradual deceleration as Kanoa demonstrates in the following sequence. Deceleration is caused by nose rocker. The underside of the surfboard's nose bend creates a bow. The bow pushes water out of the rider's path, so the board can move forward. The water displaced is called a bow wave. The bow wave is not visible, but; it sprays water over the nose of the board and against Kanoa'
