Duke Kahanamoku, Father of Surfing, Standup Paddling and Surfboard Design

The great Duke Kahanamoku spread surfing around the world, He also was an early stand up paddler with knowledge and wisdom of surfboard design. In this clip Duke stand up paddles on a boat like hull. Displacement hulls were introduced during this era by Tom Blake Tom Blake stands before the many boards he designed. The boards on the left have round bows or bellies. Bob Simmons and Matt Kevlin used round bottoms on more modern boards. Joe Quigg refined the boards and rounded bows remained popular through the 60's Nose rocker increased, boards continued to have belly. Belly allowed surfers to recover from a shallo

Extreme Nose Rocker

The Caballitos de Tatora is an ancient Peruvian fishing and surfing boat. The hull is constructed out of thousands reeds tied together. The reeds are bundled and form a round bow. The front end is bent to give, extreme nose rocker. Unlike a flat surfboard or toboggan (featured below), the hull will ride through a shallow pearl. The Caballitos de Tatora is extremely difficult to control, but; the round bow pushes water aside and keeps moving. Nose rocker must be balanced. Too little nose rocker, will cause the tip to submerge. Too much nose rocker, will cause a flat bow to stop the board. A toboggan is built with extreme forward lift and a flat bottom. The front actually curls back

How to Use a Fork in Soup? Paddle Faster Open Your Fingers?

Drink Soup with a Fork When you slowly lift open fingers through water, it drains between your fingers. Add speed by flicking your open fingers upward, through water. Water will not drain, but instead; will fly through the air. Speed generates hydrodynamic resistance in the form of a wave. The wave sprays water into the air. The same experiment can be done with a fork. Flick a fork through soup. You will be able to consume a mouthful, if your aim is good. Avoid this experiment in finer restaurants. Add more power to your stroke and increase your paddling speed. Move to safety by stroking hard and opening your fingers. Water is cohesive, it sticks to itself. Water molecules bond tog

How Hulls Displace Water

Vessels move through water by displacing water. The vessel's bow cuts a path and moves water out of its way. Water moves in the form of a bow wave or wake. The more efficiently a vessel's bow displaces water, the faster and further the vessel can move. The shape of the bow influences the speed and efficiency of water displacement. Note spray from a bow wave under Mason's board, in the photo below. When water does not move out of the way fast enough, it blocks the vessel. Boats and can add power, surfers cannot. Moving at high speed, surfers cannot stay on their feet with abrupt changes in speed. Flat bows push water forward in the boats path, before directing it around the vessel.

So Close and So Painful

Rocker Niccolo hangs on for an incredible ride, The wave is extremely round and hollow, with water rapidly streaming up its face. The flow of water is opposite Niccolo's movement. The bend in the bottom of his surfboard, abruptly impacts wave face, and gets caught in the upward water flow. The sudden deceleration in speed pitches Niccolo. The board does a shallow pearl without submerging. The bend in the nose of a surfboard is called rocker. This bend prevents the tip from submerging, or pearling. The tip does not have to submerge for a board to stop,. Drag is produced under a surfboard, whether it is under water or in the wave's face. Rocker introduces a corner or protrusion called

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