
Fluid Dynamics in Surfing
An ancient fluid displacement theorem applies to vessels moving through water: "to move in water you must move water". The principle applies to vessels such as boats, ships and schooners, which are speed restricted and cannot move fast enough to pass their bow wave. When higher speed can be attained, water cannot move out of a vessel's path, as demonstrated in the photo above. Water needs time to move, and speed does not allow fluid time to flow. Water becomes somewhat stat