Increase Performance Add Weight to a Surfboard

Surfers occasionally add weights to their surfboards for a boost in riding through chop or penetrating strong winds. Weights give the rider additional momentum. A weighted board plows through chop more easily. Weights are helpful and provides thrust needed to move through rough water. Although weights help keep the board moving, added weight may actually work against a surfer. In an airborne drop, extra weight increases mass and may cause a harder landing. On a flat underside, high impact with large chop or wave bottom, may abruptly stop the board. A hard landing creates hydrodynamic resistance, water cannot move out of the way fast enough. This can push a flat bottom surfboard back

Happy New Year! Responsible and Safe Fluid Dynamics

Fluid Dynamics All vessels move in water by moving water. Surfers generate waves while riding waves. At the start of a ride a surfer generates a forward wave called a bow wave; and an aft wave known as a trailing wake. As a surfer picks up speed, the bow wave dissipates and only a trailing wake follows. In the next video, note the bow wave that precedes a beautiful ride by Brett Barley. In this normal progression, a board moves seamlessly The bow pushes water out of the boards path, in the form of a bow wave. The rest of the board follows until it begins to plane. Then the bow lifts out of the water. Most bows are flat, at lower speeds the flat bow moves well. At high speeds more wa

Terminal Velocity

Terminal Velocity is the maximum velocity of a falling body through a medium. Years ago, I lost a friend, who fell in a failed helicopter rescue. I wondered what happened when he hit water at Terminal Velocity. With ignorance and curiosity, I did some research. Initially, your body stops on impact. Much like hitting the ground. Bones splinter, then tissue and organs compress. Water cannot compress, therefore; the body compresses. In a lower fall at lower velocities a body will push water out of the way. A body slows as it pushes water. At high speeds, water cannot move out of the way fast enough. Water does not move and creates resistance. This is fluid dynamics or hydro dynamic l

Australian Surf Boats Recover from a Dive

Australian surf boats are designed to recover out of a dive. The boats successfully resurface most of the time. Bow shape and quick weight shift are factors to success. Surfboards do not recover out of dives. The videos below may explain why. Flat bottom boats work well in flat smooth conditions. The same may apply to surfboards. Smooth clean conditions are preferred to flat bottoms. The next video demonstrates how the bow pushes water aside as the boat follows in its wake. Two wakes are created, a bow wave and a trailing wake. When producing two wakes, the vessels speed is restricted. Some vessels always generate two wakes, and cannot over take its forward wake. Speed boats rise a

Seamless Transitions

Surfing has evolved with flight. The playing field has forever changed. In smaller waves, surfers take to the sky, performing high aerial tricks with successful water landings. In large waves, the skills required to land high aerials has transferred. Surfers are successfully landing free falls in big air drops, using very small boards. This has come with a price, as many injuries occur in flat landings. Improved landings can improve surfing and reduce injuries. In flight, the flat bottom provides lift. The board becomes a wing, air pressure or lift under the board exceeds pressure from the rider's weight, providing flight (Bernoulli's Principle). The same principle applies when a sur

Peahi Challenge 2018/Contestants Risk Lives in Treacherous Conditions

On the first day of competition, with the surf still rising, professional women competed. Dangerous sets continued to build bigger and bigger. The Women did well to survive. Conditions were very dangerous when men entered the water. Billy Kemper took a horrible wipe out, surfacing after inflating his vest. He appeared lifeless as jet ski crews, pulled him out of the water. Billy Kemper lost consciousness while held under. The contest was postponed. Kai Lenny jumped on his tow board and altered all beliefs on what is possible. The next day competition resumed. The swell dropped a bit as the wind increased throughout the day. The winds increased over 30 mph, affecting all competitors.

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