Nakoa Decoite rides a soft top at Jaws. Flexible rocker saves a poke. This is a good lesson in surfboard design. Flex displaces water.
Nakoa Decoite hits chop, his weight pushes the board down and bends the nose upward. Simultaneously a splash or bow wave is generated, and shoots spray upward. A normal surfboard with a flat bottom would normally decelerate and launch the rider at this point. Hard impact of a standard surfboard bow on water, produces an abrupt stop and a rider cannot remain on his feet.
Nakoa is completely engulfed by spray, as a lot of water is displaced by the speeding board. This is water which is pushed out of Nakoa's path. Like a mattress bending on a box spring with a person jumping on it, the board flexes back, level and flat. This allows it to move through the chop, parting water.
Kakoa emerges out of the chop.
Nakoa makes it to the bottom
An alternative to soft tops is to soften the bottom shape with a Vee or round Bow.
The above board is a remake of a gun from the sixties.
Greg Noll rides a board similar to the one pictured above.
Greg pokes his nose. The round bottom parts water and keeps him moving.
Greg completes his ride.
Photos and Video from Youtube